We waited out the afternoon at Maharana Pratap Airport in Udaipur. On polished reddish stone, a giant chessboard of black and white squares held knee-high pieces: whites—knight, queen, and pawns—huddled in a jumble where our toddler stood in a striped white sweatshirt and tan pants, the blacks still ranked along the far edge. Above grey stone wainscoting, a banner in Hindi and English stood in honour of India's world…
