We climbed Jagdish Temple’s steep grey stone stair in pale morning light, saffron pennants along the rails and a tall saffron banner over the street. Weathered stone elephants stood at an arch lettered Om Jai Jagdish Hare; below, painted gatekeepers in red and green held spears beside shuttered shops, a money-exchange board, and parked scooters. Inside, Hindi verses of the Jagdish aarti hung on a carved pillar among…