We waited at the ropeway after dark, a grey steel pylon bolted into pale stone, orange-rimmed pulleys feeding a cable into the night. Blue Hindi boards promised twenty minutes and warned that wind, storm, or rain would shut the line. Families stood among the iron wheels: a man in a white polo holding a child in yellow stripes, others in jackets under the lights. At the top, Karni Mata stood in a red-and-saffron sari,…