We reached Maharana Pratap Smarak on Moti Magri in the late afternoon. The bronze rider held the summit: Maharana Pratap on Chetak, spear forward, one foreleg raised, on white marble lettered BATTLE OF HALDIGHATI, a gold sun-face of Mewar on the side, a bronze melee below, fountain jets at the basin. That 1576 clash with Akbar’s army is why the hill is a memorial; Pratap would not yield Mewar. On the diamond-tiled pl…