We spent a bright day on Chittorgarh’s plateau. Beside one carved wall we paused in a cream paisley shawl and a blue denim shirt, under a triangular jali, a register of diamonds, and brackets crowded with tiny seated figures; the upper courses were blackened, and a patch of red brick showed through next to a deep arch. Later we stood before a Hindu temple whose open porch rose on densely cut pillars, the shikhara sta…
