We climbed the crowded stone steps of Jagatpita Shri Brahma Mandir in Pushkar: grey geometric shirt and flag pin, red-and-white check and glasses, blue patterned shawl, red tilaks already on our foreheads. The cream entrance rose in a scalloped arch of floral carving; above it the name stood in raised red and gold, जगत पिता श्री ब्रह्मा मन्दिर पुष्कर. A black speaker hung left, a green awning right, metal rails guidi…