We reached Nahargarh Fort at midday, when the Aravalli haze already softened Jaipur into a pale sea of roofs. Outside Sheesh Mahal, the Palace of Mirrors, a sunburst of mosaic tiles headed a board that counted some two and a half million glass pieces, thikri, gold leaf, and a glass floor it called the only one of its kind. A chained post and a strip of artificial grass sat on dusty ground beside a cracked yellow plat…
