We pulled off at a CNG pump on Bikaner's eastern edge just after eight, between the hotel night and the highway toward Sri Dungargarh. Grey interlocking pavers ran in a zigzag under a clear, pale blue sky, long shadows sharp on the concrete. A low off-white wall cut the yard; beyond it rose a faded yellow two-storey building with rectangular windows, sparse green scrub, and a slender lattice mast banded red and white…