We reached Shree Karni Mata Temple at dusk, the sun a yellow flare behind the white ribbed dome and its small flag, a deep-red panel holding a gold-bordered icon above carved marble. Shoes covered both sides of a scalloped path to a metal-roofed portico; a green board in yellow letters read PLACE YOUR SHOES HERE. A floodlight mast rose over corrugated sheets. Barefoot inside, kabbas crossed black-and-white checks and…