We reached Gadisar Lake at dusk, the sky dropping from deep blue into lavender and pink. On pale flagstones we stood before a scrap-metal heart lettered I LOVE JAISALMER, camels of gears and chains at its sides, a wall of rough red sandstone and pale blue plaster behind, a golden dome and saffron pennant just over the top. Clay pots sat on the paving; boards for Round 2 Meal and Platters marked the market edge. At th…
