We reached Jaisalmer Fort from the parking below, honey sandstone rising in rounded bastions and palace jharokhas, a yellow flag on the highest roof and jeeps along the retaining wall. From crenellated ramparts a plaza of walkers, textile stalls, and parked cars spread beneath a café court of teal chairs, draped cloth, and a magenta doorway, then the yellow city ran to a hazy horizon and a lone tower. A circular sund…