We arrived at Shri Tanot Mata Temple under a hard desert sky. A clock on the orange wall read past one. Through an arch of green and maroon garlands and golden bells, Tanot Mata stood in yellow and red flowers; a brass bell hung before the sanctum, a steel दानपात्र sat on the dark floor, and a man in a tan kurta and yellow scarf raised both hands. We left with a yellow-and-red tilak on our foreheads. A shaggy goat cr…