We reached Achalgarh in late afternoon, where a salt-and-pepper granite wall held a black marble plaque in a white bevelled surround. Gold lettering named the Shrimant Sheth Achalsinhji Amarsinhji Jain Pedhi Trust and a Rohida family tied to K. Champalal of Ahmedabad’s New Cloth Market. Rounded grey steps then opened between a pair of weathered elephants, painted dull blue-grey with green and red saddlecloths; men sa…