We spent the afternoon on Guru Shikhar, the highest crest of the Aravalli Range and the highest ground in Rajasthan. Pale rock rose steep and pitted: slate-grey pigeons packed the ledges among dry gold grass and leafless succulents, a crumpled black tarp and thin wire at the stalls, a pale-yellow wall with one window. From a paved walk and brown metal rail the hills fell away in scrub and haze. One of us stood in a w…