We stood in the glare of the outer courtyard at Shri Jain Shwetambar Mandir Delwara on Abu Parvat, three of us on pale grey paving: a deep-red shirt and dark grey trousers, a light-blue check and glasses, a blue-and-white floral salwar kameez with the matching dupatta still across the shoulders. Behind us the whitewashed block carried a long blue Hindi board that named the temple and, below, the Sirohi pedhi of Seth…
