We stopped at Hotel Jai Baba Ramdev, a highway halt on the road from Udaipur toward Mount Abu, and found a shrine occupying a tiled corner. A pale Shiva sat on stacked brown stones that ran with water, damaru in hand, yellow and white garlands heaped on his neck, boxed by a curved stainless-steel rail over grey-and-white marble. Behind him a light-blue mountain mural held round Jyotirlinga medallions named in red Hin…