We began the Rajasthan trip already seated in a cabin row at Chennai International Airport, three of us smiling in the warm wash of recessed ceiling lights. A white-and-red boarding pass, barcode facing out, sat tucked in the breast pocket of a cream corduroy shirt with snap buttons; black-rimmed glasses and a trimmed beard completed the near seat. Beside it came a deep teal saree with a floral border, gold bangles,…